A stranger turned my distress into delight

One of my most memorable experiences in Vietnam was losing more than 20 US$100 bills.

I had gone on a hectic work trip to Hanoi and only realised that my money pouch was missing just moments before flying out from Hanoi International Airport. It was too late to file a police report.

When I returned to Singapore, I couldn’t find it in my checked in bag either. I was frantic and distressed.

After fretting for many days, I checked with the staff at Win Hotel where I had stayed. After a few hours, the hotel staff who responded with unbelievable news.

Quang, the hotel manager, had found the money in a pouch at the lobby and kept it in a safe, waiting for its owner to claim it.

Six months later, I travelled to Hanoi for a holiday and had the honour and pleasure of finally meeting the man of integrity who returned my money.

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Dr Le Khac Quyet is up to some monkey business

I interview Dr Le Khac Quyet who bares all about his love for the Tonkin snub-nosed monkey, one of the world’s top 25 most endangered primates. Fewer than 250 can be found in northern Vietnam, their only habitat. Most of them live in Khau Ca, a dense limestone forest.

Dr Quyet has been researching the monkeys for more than 15 years. He won the prestigious Sabin Prize for Excellence in Primate Conservation in 2014 for his outstanding contributions in the field of endangered-primate conservation.

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Q: Why are you so fascinated with the Tonkin snub-nosed monkey?

Sometimes I question why I want to be with the monkeys. But if I stay away for a while, I miss them. It’s not only my job. I think it’s my life. I love wildlife. I love monkeys.

Someone said: “It’s such a weird primate, but it’s so cute. Its lips are so pink and so hot!” Someone even compared them to a hot celebrity. Someone joked that its lips look like Angelina Jolie’s.

Q: Tell me about your first encounter with the monkeys.

In 2002, I was researching the Tonkin snub-nosed monkeys for my masters degree. I had spent 10 days in Khau Ca forest, but didn’t spot a single one.

One evening, a local hunter bought me a backpack. He said: “Quyet, I have a Tonkin snub-nosed monkey.” When he unwrapped the backpack, I was really shocked. Totally shocked. It’s a head of Tonkin snub-nosed monkey.

The next day, I went to the forest and luckily, I saw a big group of about 20 individuals. I was so lucky. I think I got about 10 photos of them. It’s very important evidence to show, to prove that there are Tonkin snub-nosed monkeys in Khau Ca.

Q: Why are the monkeys under threat?

In the past, their main threat was hunting. People would eat their meat. By 2006, the Vietnamese government had banned and confiscated all guns in Khau Ca. Anyone who hunts the Tonkin snub-nosed monkeys will face a jail term of up to seven years.

Today, Khau Ca is a protected area open only to people who are authorised, like researchers and conservationists. But some farmers still let their livestock graze in the forest. There is no clear law to stop them.

There are about 10,000 people living around Khau Ca. They need land for agriculture. They need wood for new houses. They demand more natural resources. When they go to the forest, they disturb the monkeys living there.

Q: How do you protect the monkeys?

I have a team of field research assistants who spend at least 20 days each month patrolling for unlawful activities like illegal timber extraction.

We also educate the villagers. The local people now love the monkey. They realise that this is a protected forest and protected monkey.

I also work with the local forest protection department to develop and implement forest conservation plans.

Q: What are the challenges you face in your work?

Travelling around Khau Ca is quite a big challenge for us. We face many sharp, pointed rocks and holes. If we don’t pay attention, we can either get hurt, get cut or even fall down. It’s quite hard.

We also face difficulties finding the monkeys. When they move, we move. Sometimes we know where they are but we cannot access them.

 The weather in Khau Ca is also very unpredictable. It can rain for three days or a whole week. The rocks are very slippery when wet. I am lucky. I haven’t had any big fall yet.

Watch Dr Le Khac Quyet in action in Wild We Can, a wildlife documentary I co-produced for Channel NewsAsia.

Highlights of Vietnam

From misty mountains in Sapa to quaint streets in Hoi An to enchanting riverscapes in the Mekong Delta, Vietnam offers countless scenic sights. To date, I’ve made seven trips across the country and counting. Here are some of the most scenic places I’ve photographed.

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When to go… 

Sapa

• Go in springtime (April and May) during the rice planting season, if you want to take pictures of flooded rice fields.
• If you prefer golden rice terraces, go in autumn (September) when farmers are harvesting. The cool and dry weather and stable temperature are perfect for trekking and taking photographs.

Halong Bay

• Looking for clear blue skies and colourful photographs? Visit Halong Bay during the dry winter or early spring months (October to March). But be prepared for the high tourist season.
• If you’re after moody and misty landscapes, go in summer (April to September) when you can expect stormy weather and frequent rains. This is also the time fewer tourists visit the bay.

Hoi An

• Go during the dry season from February to July. You can expect plenty of sunny days – perfect for photography.

Ho Chi Minh

• For great weather and clear skies, visit during the dry season from December till April. If you go during Tet, or the Vietnamese Chinese New Year, you’ll have extra fun time with all the festivities and fireworks.